19 February 2021

Barranco Camp to Karanga Camp

Elevation (ft) 13,000ft to 13,100ft

Distance 2 mi

Hiking Time 4-5 hours

Habitat Alpine Desert

After breakfast, we leave Barranco and continue on a steep ridge passing the Barranco Wall, to the Karanga Valley campsite. This is a short day meant for acclimatization.

*c/o Embark Exploration, Co.

Yesterday, as Freddie paced me into Camp, I saw Barrancco Wall for the first time. From a distance, the switch backs blended into shades of gray as shadows took the wall in the afternoon light. Of all of the obstacles going into this adventure, I found Barrancco the most intimidating. Seeing her for the first time, I felt ease and knowing. I am not afraid anymore.

We woke to another beautiful / beautifully cold morning. Laying in my tent, I am intentional and excited. Anxiety does not know me here. I have trained for this 800 foot scramble and I am ready to begin. I am ready to take it all in and savor the presence that the task asks of me.

Arriving at the base of the wall, I begin my ascent. I am mentally prepared to face this task alone but a hand reached out instead. Wilfred has been tasked with our safety and I trust him. At 29, Wilfred has climbed Kibo over 100 times; his eyes are kind and I feel no judgement. I find myself opening up to him in spurts. He can take my blunt explanations in stride and I appreciate sharing my burden. I don’t ask him questions directly but the others share our guides stories freely and I embrace the familiarity that a trek like this offers.

“It is a memorial tattoo. This was my harvest when my body knew that my mother was killed.”

“My husband is dead. Covid stole our rituals. I am making this journey to search for peace. I am taking him to the stars.”

On the wall, I am not afraid to look back at where I came from.

Chin up, eyes heavy.

This task makes me catch my breath.

Pole, pole now.

What happens when fear

Evaporates like the dawn?

Cyclical knowing.

I have been anticipating this day, this scramble in perhaps a more tangible way than even my summit goal. All along I have embraced the journey and climbing Barranco will symbolize my transition. In another life, I am afraid of heights. I feel an unpleasant rush and my stomach betrays my intention.

Here in Tanzania, THIS morning, I am not touched by fear. I am part of a cycle and will add my footsteps to the innumerable before mine. Climbing to the top of this 800 foot wall will officially put me on level with this abstract dream of reaching the stars.

Our guide Augustine has told us, “This is where you will TOUCH Kilimanjaro.” I leave my poles behind and reach out. I reach for this earth that is mending my tired psyche. With each step, with each challenge I feel life again. As the sun begins to warm Barranco, I can already feel my own transition. I trust. I trust my guide. I trust myself.

“There is nowhere to go but UP, my Love. One step closer to the stars, to infinity, to you.”

The climb is invigorating and with calm and gratitude, I ascend. I make a point to look over my shoulder, searching for Barranco Camp below… a reminder of where I’ve been, of where we’ve been.

Hand over foot, pole pole to the top and another sunrise behind me. I am 800 feet closer to the stars.